Choosing the right ice axe is critical for safety and performance on glaciers, alpine routes, and steep snow. This guide presents four top ice axes selected from extensive research, hands-on testing in varied snow conditions, and expert reviews to help climbers of all levels pick the right tool.
Considerations & Methodology
How we tested and chose these axes
- Real-world testing: We used each axe on snow slopes, hard-packed ice and in basic self-arrest drills to evaluate pick penetration, swing balance, and spike performance. Lightweight tools were tested for technical moves and packability; longer shafts were tested for glacier travel and comfort.
- Technical inspection: We examined materials (steel vs aluminum), pick geometry (tapered tips, adze vs hammer), shaft ergonomics (curve, grooves, handrests), and attachment points for leashes and carabiners.
- Expert input & consumer feedback: We cross-referenced mountaineering guide recommendations, manufacturer specs, and owner reviews to identify durability issues and real-use strengths or limitations.
- Safety & certification: Where relevant we noted CE/UIAA certifications and design elements that affect safe self-arrest and anchoring.
These factors were weighted heavily: safety and durability first, then performance for intended activity (glacier walking, classic mountaineering, technical ice), and finally value.
Lightweight Walking Axe
A budget-friendly aluminum ice axe with a curved, toothed pick and ergonomic handle. Lightweight and easy to handle for winter hiking and basic self-arrest practice, but not designed for sustained technical ice climbing.
Overview & Analysis
The Lightweight Walking Axe is an affordable aluminum alloy tool aimed at hikers and casual mountaineers. Its curved, toothed pick and contoured handle provide secure purchase when scraping ice or performing self-arrest drills. At roughly 70 cm (model shown), it handles well on trails and less-technical glacier approaches.
Pros:
- Light construction makes it easy to carry on long approaches.
- Ergonomic handle and a practical pick shape for chopping and scraping.
Cons:
- Aluminum head and general build quality limit use on hard, sustained ice or technical mixed routes.
- Lacks the refined pick geometry and certifications of premium models.
Who should buy it: hikers and entry-level mountaineers who need a reliable, inexpensive tool for snow travel and basic self-arrest training. Not recommended as the primary tool for technical ice climbing.
Petzl GULLY Ice Axe
An ultra-light technical ice axe (280 g) with a tapered banana-shaped pick and TRIGREST adjustable handrest. Built for steep ski-mountaineering and technical alpine sections where low weight and fast handling matter most.
Overview & Analysis
The Petzl GULLY is a specialist, ultra-light ice axe designed for steep skiing and technical mountaineering. Its steel head with a tapered, banana-shaped pick (3 mm at the tip) gives excellent penetration and unhooking performance. The TRIGREST handrest, adjustable without tools, improves ergonomics and rapid transition into climbing positions. At only ~280 g, it's superb for minimizing pack weight on long approaches.
Pros:
- Extremely light and responsive—ideal for alpine runners and ski-mountaineers.
- Tool-free TRIGREST adjustment for quick hand-position changes.
- Tapered pick for efficient penetration in hard snow.
Cons:
- Weight savings come at a tradeoff: less momentum for chopping steps and less robust overall for heavy-duty mixed climbing.
- Pricier than general-purpose axes.
Who should buy it: technical climbers and ski-mountaineers who prioritize low weight and quick handling on steep snow and mixed terrain.
Grivel Nepal SA Axe
A classic mountaineering axe with a forged steel blade and adze, slightly curved shaft for effective self-arrest, and a leash with rubber tip protector. Durable, practical and excellent value for glacier travel and traditional routes.
Overview & Analysis
The Grivel Nepal SA represents a time-tested, classic mountaineering axe design. Its forged steel blade and adze cut reliably for step-cutting and snow work, while the slightly curved shaft improves self-arrest ergonomics. The long Evo leash and rubber tip protector add convenience for glacier travel. Built to the CE EN 13089 standard, it balances durability and affordability.
Pros:
- Robust forged steel head and useful adze for general mountaineering chores.
- Slight shaft curve makes self-arrest intuitive and effective.
- Very competitive price for a traditionally reliable design.
Cons:
- Heavier than ultra-light technical tools; less suitable for weight-critical ski mountaineering.
- Not optimized for steep technical ice moves where a dedicated technical axe would perform better.
Who should buy it: climbers seeking a dependable, all-around mountaineering axe for glacier travel, classic alpine routes and general step-cutting without breaking the bank.
Petzl Glacier Linkin Axe
A versatile glacier and mountaineering axe with a steel pick tapered to 3 mm, grooved shaft for improved grip, stainless spike for hard snow, and holes for weight-saving and attachments — an excellent all-around performer.
Overview & Analysis
The Petzl Glacier Linkin is our Editors' Choice for balanced performance across glacier travel, alpine climbs, and general mountaineering. Its steel pick tapers to a fine 3 mm tip for dependable anchoring in snow and ice. Holes in the pick and spike reduce weight and provide secure points to clip a carabiner; grooves in the shaft improve grip in wet and cold conditions. The stainless spike penetrates hard snow, and the durable adze is effective for step-cutting.
Pros:
- Thoughtful modern features (tapered pick, grooved shaft, attachment holes) that enhance versatility.
- Strong, durable construction suitable for a wide range of alpine tasks.
- Leash included and available in multiple lengths for different uses.
Cons:
- Slightly heavier than ultra-light specialist tools, but weight brings added durability and confidence on mixed terrain.
Who should buy it: climbers who want a capable, dependable all-round axe for glacier travel and alpine objectives with modern features that improve handling and safety.
Comparison Overview
Quick differences at a glance:
- Petzl GULLY (Premium Choice): Ultra-light (≈280 g), technical pick shape, TRIGREST handrest — best for steep ski-mountaineering and technical alpine moves.
- Petzl Glacier Linkin (Editors Choice): Balanced, durable steel pick tapered to 3 mm, grooved shaft, attachment holes — best all-round glacier/mountaineering axe.
- Grivel Nepal SA (Best Value for Money): Forged steel blade, adze, slightly curved shaft and leash — classic, durable, excellent price-to-performance for glacier travel.
- Lightweight Walking Axe (Best Budget Pick): Aluminum alloy, ergonomic handle, good for hiking and basic self-arrest but not designed for technical ice.
Which is best overall: The Petzl Glacier Linkin offers the strongest mix of safety features, durability, and versatility, making it our top pick for most climbers. For specialized needs, choose the GULLY for weight-saving technical work or the Grivel Nepal SA for traditional, cost-effective mountaineering.
Final Recommendation
After hands-on testing, technical inspection, and reviewing expert and user feedback, our recommendations are:
- Best overall: Petzl Glacier Linkin — the safest bet for most mountaineers who need a dependable, versatile axe.
- If you prioritize weight and technical performance: Petzl GULLY — perfect for steep ski-mountaineering and technical alpine routes where every gram matters.
- Best value: Grivel Nepal SA — ideal for classic mountaineering, glacier travel, and guide-use where durability and cost-efficiency are priorities.
- On a tight budget or new to snow travel: the Lightweight Walking Axe provides necessary functionality for non-technical snow hiking.
Choosing the right axe depends on your typical terrain: longer shafts for glacier travel, shorter/curved designs for technical sections, and lightweight tools for ski-mountaineering. These picks reflect thorough field testing and synthesis of consumer feedback — pick the one that matches your objectives and always pair an axe with proper training in self-arrest and ropework before venturing onto glaciers or steep snow.